Why You Should Avoid Using Rembrandt Lighting on Women

Why You Should Avoid Using Rembrandt Lighting on Women

In the history of visual art, few figures loom as large as Rembrandt. His influence on photography is so great that “Rembrandt lighting” has become a staple method for portraiture. But Rembrandt Lighting is often a poor choice for photographing women, especially when working with corporate clients.

For those of you unfamiliar with the terminology, Rembrandt lighting refers to a style used extensively in portrait work and cinematography. It incorporates a shadowed side of the face that features a triangle patch of light under the subject's eye, often referred to as the "Rembrandt triangle." It is extremely versatile and is arguably the most important lighting method for portrait photographers.

You may be wondering why I am suggesting avoiding this classic and time-tested method. Here are four reasons.

1. Rembrandt Lighting Accentuates Facial Features

The angle at which the light hits the subject's face in Rembrandt lighting creates a three-dimensional look. And this was the point, after all, to make a two-dimensional subject look 3D. But the problem with this is that it also accentuates facial features, including the nose, brow line, cheekbones, and jaw. Put more plainly, it can make noses look bigger, brows more pronounced, and jaws more defined. When working with women, this can be a major pitfall to Rembrandt lighting because it hardens and emphasizes the individual features instead of softening them.

2. Rembrandt Lighting Brings Out Every Line, Bump, and Crevice on the Shadow Side of the Face

Another issue with Rembrandt lighting is that the angle of the light combined with the shadow side of the face emphasizes fine lines, bumps, and imperfections. In essence, it draws attention to — instead of away from — every detail, showing every bump and flaw in 3D. If you are working with clients who have fine lines, laugh lines around the mouth and eyes, or blemishes, using Rembrandt lighting will make these more prominent. 

Ginelle, lit using a modified triangle lighting

3. Rembrandt Lighting Restricts Posing Options

A third issue with using Rembrandt light is that it limits the photographer's options when posing and insists that the nose be either straight on or pointed toward the key light. This problem is exacerbated if the photographer does not shoot the subject from their "good side." Many inexperienced headshot and portrait photographers do not even consider their subject's good side when shooting and instead use a cookie-cutter method for light placement and posing. This does a huge disservice to the subject, since their most flattering angle is not even considered by the photographer before the shoot begins. Additionally, if the nose is pointed the wrong way (away from the key light), it makes for less than flattering results and highlights the broad side of the face.

4. Rembrandt Light Is a Bad Option for Corporate Headshots

When I am shooting corporate headshots for women, I never, ever use Rembrandt lighting. If you think I am wrong about this, here is a little test you can do. The next time you have a female corporate client in your studio, tell her that you are going to intentionally add shadows to her face, and let me know how she reacts! I also feel that Rembrandt lighting and quasi-Rembrandt lighting styles have become a crutch for portrait photographers, fostering a one-size-fits-all mentality that creates work that is stale and misses the uniqueness of the face being photographed. 

Kelly, an opera singer, lit using Rembrandt lighting

If Not Rembrandt, Then What?

Now that I've made my case against Rembrandt lighting, you must be wondering if there is a better option. In my experience, there certainly is! I have found that the best light to use when photographing women, especially corporate clients, is an even, flattering light. This can be achieved by using either two lights in a parallel configuration (one on each side of the subject) or by using three lights in a triangle or C shape.

The advantage of these setups is that they resolve the issues caused by Rembrandt lighting since even light will fill in fine lines and shadows, help to eliminate bags under the eyes, reduce the prominence of the brow, and in general, de-emphasize the features. Instead of being drawn to the nose or other prominent facial features, the viewer's attention moves towards the subject's expression.

Another advantage of using an even light is that it allows you to move the subject around and point their nose in either direction without having to worry about them moving out of the sweet spot of the light. This is a huge advantage for photographers who are unable to tell which side of the face is the good side since you can easily capture both sides of the face while maintaining beautiful light. If you are shooting tethered, it becomes even easier to figure out what angles work best for the individual face you are photographing.

Regina, an actress, lit using Rembrandt lighting

Yes, There Are Exceptions to Every Rule

Now, before I'm branded a hater or just plain wrong about all of this, let me say that I use Rembrandt lighting all the time, and sometimes with female clients. For instance, take a photo of Regina. She is an actress and came to me specifically for dramatic photos that could be used to help her book more gritty roles. So, for her shoot, I made sure she was shadowed up in a Rembrandt style, and the results were exactly what she wanted and needed. In the portrait of Kelly, an opera singer, we wanted to convey drama and also give the image a classic vibe, so Rembrandt lighting was the ideal choice. 

But even with female acting and artist clients, I still make it a point to start every session with a flattering, even light. I do this because I know from experience that my clients will love the results. Once they are feeling good about the session and results being captured, it becomes much easier to experiment with more dramatic options like Rembrandt lighting, instead of relying on it as your main option.

Mastering Rembrandt lighting is a necessity for every headshot and portrait photographer. The versatility and flexibility of this lighting method are hard to beat. But, like every other tool in the photographer's bag, there are best practices associated with its use. It's up to the photographer to know when to use it and when to choose a better option.

Pete Coco's picture

Pete Coco is a portrait photographer, musician, and YouTuber based in New York. When not performing as a jazz bassist, Pete can be found in his studio working with a wide range of clients, although is passion is creating unique portraits of other musicians and artists.

Log in or register to post comments
46 Comments